The best of you cook this week – Liberation

Bouffons la vie, Libé’s cooking recipescase

Recipes and good addresses: every Saturday, find the best of our gastronomic newspaper.

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But what is this dish: kipper

It’s herring time again. Autumn is definitely the season when this cheerful and migratory fish meets the Côte d’Opale, between the Belgian coast and the Bay of Somme. Since dawn, the migratory herring is seen as a godsend as it travels by the millions, and on the Côte d’Opale side, it is said, it can bend the sea with its numbers. It can be eaten fresh, of course (in the oven with mustard and fresh cream), but it is best known as a salted, smoked, marinated fillet in oil with potatoes. There are many other versions of this prolo fish. We have a special affection for kipper: opened from the back, salted and slightly smoked, it looks like a golden butterfly. Traditionally, our British neighbors ate it for breakfast, roasted, with black tea. We like to cook it with boiled potatoes and serve it all with green onions.

The sauce that can: Long live Germaine

Sauces like the name: after Robert, here’s Germain to cook with cold clams. A small bowl of mayonnaise is required; 2 tablespoons of ketchup; 1 small glass of whiskey or brandy; 2 tablespoons of fresh cream; salt and pepper. Pour the mayonnaise into a small bowl. Add ketchup, whiskey or brandy, fresh cream. Mix gently and check the seasoning.

Source: Belgian cuisine, 200 local recipes by Janine and Jacques-André Delilly (Octogone Publishing, 2005).

Napkin Rings: Near Place d’Aligre, Gemma’s Italy

Are you already missing your vacation in Italy? Go and cure your boot pain at Gemma, a pizzeria located off Place d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. Some of the staff are Italian and we are happy to address each other in Italo Calvino – without turning the show over. The treatment is confirmed on the plate and in the cups. If the caprese we chose does an honest job (the modern focaccia is good, the tomatoes are good, the mozzarella is better than most that you usually get in Italian restaurants in Paris, but it doesn’t measure up to the homemade mozzarella you’ve tasted in Umbria or Lazio. ), the aromas of the pizza that gave off From his plate, we were left in little doubt of his (good) quality. To wash it all down, of course, Italian wines (Piedmont, Sicily, Tuscany…), which we are well advised on. Finally, not the most fundamental detail, but very much appreciated: we were served coffee that was not too strong, unlike Italian restaurants that seek credibility by having your face fall off with three drops of ultra-strong coffee. And, if you don’t promise that the attention is systematic, we were treated to two little hits of limoncello upon payment, which was an unexpected and nice gesture.

Gemma, 63 rue Traversière, 75012. Open daily, lunch and dinner.

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