In France, the kebab continues to reinvent itself

Posted on October 23, 2022 at 2:00 pm

Her brooch is also turning heads in France. Far from the banks of the Rhine, the kebab invites itself to the land of the traditional baguette, to the table of gourmets and gourmands. Even better, over the years, and even more so after the imprisonment, it has become one of the most popular dishes with the French, sometimes recognized, sometimes criticized, when it is not politicized. If lovers of traditional kebab go with pleasure Ozlem In Paris, with a dirty sandwich and a sickly skewer, playing with minimal ingredients, as the Turks did, recently others gave insolence. Witness Noah Lazare, whose small shop GemuzaBuilt in the 18th centurye The Paris area is always full. With an eye on his Berlin colleagues, the geek-of-all-trades restaurateur expresses his soul as a chef with the help of original recipes.

Because here, rather than the art of assembling the kebab, it is an art based on this multiple, cosmopolitan heritage that contributes to its popularity: unlike Germany, with its strong Turkish community presence, This tradition was brought back to France, namely in Paris, in the Saint-Michel Square, by the Greeks of Gyros. Hence the expression: eat Greekhe explains. But, in Berlin, I was impressed by the famous “Mustafa” or “Rüyam Gemüse Kebab” recipes, for example, using a bit of marinated red cabbage, pide bread, which is a traditional Turkish bread that has not been used before. Generally in France in this sandwich. It is a slightly crispy bread with sesame. Everything is very rich, generous, colorful, with different textures. »

A new recipe every month

Neither Turkish nor Greek, the young chef was not particularly inspired by what was being done in Berlin street food to create a kebab that gave pride of place to vegetables, from zucchini to tomatoes, and opted for a lighter chicken. , stood out from the traditional veal skewers. There are very tender, or turkey, which are cheap. Here we break free from convention, Noah Lazare energizing his sandwiches with Japanese curry, plantains, red beans or even melted cheddar. “We often get the impression that kebabs are junk food, two or three ingredients taken out of the freezer. Each month I offer a new recipe inspired by a different culture. One of my favorite variations is our Moroccan version, with semolina bread, coriander sauce and carrots garnished with cumin, candied lemon and green olives. »

At Gemüse, traditional Turkish bread is generously garnished with vegetables, including marinated red cabbage, similar to a Berlin doner.

At Gemüse, traditional Turkish bread is generously garnished with vegetables, including marinated red cabbage, similar to a Berlin doner.DR

The desire to have fun in the kitchen, to reinvent the kebab, has been present for several years now in the three pioneers of the genre: the trio created by Marie Carcassonne, from the world of the hotel industry, Hugo Desnoyers, the butcher star, and Frédéric Penault, the restaurateur previously associated with prominent tables Chateaubriand and Dolphin in Paris. They founded a famous store together in 2013 gate In Paris, a small revolution in the capital. “I had very vivid memories of tasting it in Syria, Turkey, Kurdistan, this slightly smoky flavor of meat grilled over a wood fire, very simple sauces. Faced with the emergence of hamburger restaurants in France, I said to myself, it’s crazy: no one has ever taken a more sophisticated approach to the kebab.Frédéric Penault recalls. But beware, there is a false simplicity with this dish: it is quite the opposite! For our part, we make our own bread, skewers, skewers, all our homemade sauces every morning. »

The essence of this know-how: a good skewer, which is as much about the quality of the meat as it is about the preparation, to get the grilled side, the caramelized meat. In order not to dry out, it should be cut regularly at the right time. If Frédéric Penault is now happily dreaming of new kebabs, including the fish-inspired mackerel sandwich he ate in Turkey, he also serves so-called traditional kebabs in his restaurant: homemade bread, Moulin des Moines bios flours, homemade harissa. White mint sauce in the form of tzatziki. From the traditional triptych – tomato onion salad – to the kebab revisited, the culinary success of this dish has been proven in the four corners of France, to the point that political scientist Jérôme Fourquet, author France Before Our Eyes (2021), He drew a new cartography.

A crisis-proof sandwich

Because if the sandwich is so popular, it’s because it’s particularly crisis-proof. Reason ? Very little room service and skewers are often made industrially in small stalls, garnished with frozen vegetables. “Of course, like a burger, a kebab is on top, It encrypts. But most establishments are firmly entrenched in consuming popular foods. Especially since there are no large kebab chains in France, this is another specificity. As an economic activity, it allows people to create and create activities independently. »

Another grilled recipe: homemade Dürüm galette, roasted veal, homemade sauces that change with the seasons.

Another grilled recipe: homemade Dürüm galette, roasted veal, homemade sauces that change with the seasons.DR

Hence the growing footprint of its establishment, while other businesses haven’t stopped closing up shop since the pandemic. “That’s why it can also be a symptom of poor health in the local economic and social fabric, as Nicolas Mathieu said in his book Their Children After Them.”he continues. In the collective imagination, the proliferation of kebabs in one place is for some a sign of significant immigrant presence and the impoverishment of a neighborhood or city. On the extreme right, there is talk of the Kababization of certain areas. Although we sometimes read that the French eat more pizza than the Italians, it never bothered anyone. No one is politically offended by the enormous success of sushi or Chinese cuisine.he jokes.

Instrumentalized, the dish on the spit is not finished, which gets people talking in the political sphere. And lovers of abundant, good and cheap food will drool. in his house gate, despite the inflationary wave, many are planned to open, from Strasbourg to Dijon, via Marseille. A small company that does not really know the crisis.

Finding the address of 6 kebabs

Gemuse Berliner Kebap61, Rue Ramey, 75018 Paris.

gate, 15, rue Saint-Augustin and 6, rue des Petits-Carreaux in Paris, 86c, Esplanade du General de Gaulle in Courbevoie. Soon outside Ile-de-France.

Ozlem57, rue des Petites-Ecuries, 75010 Paris.

Cappadocia 98 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris.

Chef Berlin Kebab10, rue Terme, 69001 Lyon.

Surpriz Berliner Kebab110, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris.

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